Multigenerational Cruising on the Edge

I’ve been on over a dozen cruises, and have often seen large family groups cruising together,  but never participated before –  usually it’s just me and my husband, or me, husband and our kids.  These big groups always seemed to be having a blast,  and they are hard to miss because they often take up a lot of seats at the bar or pool.

In January, I finally had the opportunity to be part of “that group”.   I cruised with 19 other extended family members, aged 19 – 88,  on the beautiful Celebrity Edge.   The ship and itinerary was chosen by the oldest of the group (“Nanny and Pop Pop”),  who have limited mobility but wanted to find a way to spend time with their grandchildren that would be fun for all.  We scheduled the trip just after Christmas,  when several of the younger generation who attend college were on break.

Pros and Cons of Large Group Cruising:

 

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Con: it’s really hard to get a good group photo

I’ll get to my review of the Edge in a minute, but first I wanted to outline what I see as the advantages and disadvantages of cruising for a multigenerational group:

First, the positives of large group cruising:

  • There are enough activities to interest everyone in the group
  • If the group wants to break up and enjoy different areas of the ship according to interest, they can.  When I’m with Husband, sometimes I find myself alone –  he likes a sunny spot by the pool, I like a quieter spot in the shade,  for example-  that never happened on this trip.   Similarly,  if one of your party is tired and wants to rest in the room or sleep in,  the other can still find things to do and people to do them with.  And in our case,  Nanny and Pop Pop didn’t need or want to visit the ports – they’ve seen them all before –  but the rest of us could, and they still had things to do they enjoy such as the buffet and trivia.
  • Once you’re onboard,  transportation isn’t a concern (unless you visit a port).
  • We all had the Beverage Package included in our cruise fare –  so since dining is also included, there was no worry about splitting tabs.
  • Unlike, say,  a beach rental house,  no one has to cook or clean.
  • With set dining times,  you are guaranteed seating for your large group at a specific time each night.  In our case, we had two adjacent tables in the Cyprus dining room at 6:00pm.
  • Because there were so many of us,  you could always find someone in the group  by checking a few specific areas:  for us,  the Pool Bar, the Martini Bar, the Casino, or the Club.  When hitting the buffet, we always tried to stay in one area so we could find each other.
  • You have an automatic cheering section whenever you play a game or sing karaoke!

Now, a few negative considerations / challenges with a large group:

  • While set dining works,  it can get a little boring,  and it’s difficult to try out “select” or “anytime” dining (where you aren’t scheduled) or specialty restaurants unless you split up the group. We were able to try a couple of the other main dining rooms (the Edge has 4), but only with a very early 5:30 reservation time.  It was important to Nanny and Pop Pop that we all come together for dinner,  so 5:30 or 6:00 it was.
  • We had a group text to communicate,  but it was only partially useful as the Wifi on the ship was spotty (as I have found with virtually every cruise ship – it would be great if they figured this out once and for all).
  • Outside of cruise sponsored excursions,  it wasn’t that easy to explore the islands with such a large group.  We did take taxis to a beach club in Cozumel, which suited everyone,  but at other ports it was more challenging to find something of interest, within everyone’s budget,  along with the necessary transportation.  See below for thoughts on our ports and what we did.

Review of Celebrity Edge:

Market segment: On to my thoughts on the Edge! I haven’t sailed with Celebrity since before I had children so that’s…. a long time.  Celebrity is positioned as a slightly more upscale sister to Royal Caribbean,  a mass market line that in my opinion is one of the best for families with children.  Royal’s ships usually include waterslides, climbing rocks, zippiness, bungee or ropes courses, and other family-friendly features. Norwegian Cruise Lines,  on which we have also sailed a number of times,  is very comparable to Royal Caribbean.  Celebrity, on the other hand,  seems to be geared to a slightly older clientele,  with more lounge, bar, and restaurant space and fewer child-friendly activities.   The other passengers on board tended to average a bit older.

Public spaces: The ship itself is beautiful and very modern,  dominated by gray and tan decor and beautiful lighting throughout.  Debuting in 2019,  the Edge, like most newer cruise ships,  features unique and original spaces designed to separate them from other ships.  On Edge,  one unique feature is the “Magic Carpet”,  a moveable open deck that hangs off one side of the ship.   The Magic Carpet is utilized as a bar/lounge during the day, and a restaurant at night.  It was worth visiting, just for the intrigue of being “off the Edge”.  We didn’t love the Home Depot orange color of the Magic Carpet,  which made it seem like it was under construction –  not what you want when you’re 14 stories above the water.  Another space, “Eden”,  is a multistory, windowed space on the back of the ship that is filled with plants and flowers.  It’s a lounge during the day, and there are shows at night that are choreographed to take advantage of the multiple stories and decks.

Our group,  which included a large number of young twenty-somethings, found ourselves often in the Club,  where dance parties and karaoke were the evening norm. Even Nanny joined in the dancing fun.   The Club is a two story space designed to look like a clubbing space in the city,  with a large dance floor, dark lighting, and many places to lounge around a bar.   The Casino was also a popular spot in the evenings –  Nanny and Pop Pop love their blackjack and Texas Hold’em,  and the relatively low table minimums meant even the young’uns could participate and learn.  Best of all, the Casino is non-smoking –  a huge plus for us.

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Embarkation Day Drinks on the Magic Carpet

 

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Rooftop Garden restaurant

 

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Watching football on the Rooftop Garden
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The pool on Embarkation Day, before the crowds

 

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Eden Lounge

Overall, this ship felt less crowded than others I’ve been on,  particularly on the two Sea Days.  There were 2800 passengers,  but we generally found at least a few seats wherever we wanted, even during prime time.

Food:   Food taste is very subjective,  but Husband and Oldest son all agreed that this was the best cruise ship food we’ve had.  We never dined in a specialty restaurant,  due to the group size;  on other ships we’ve found that’s where the better food is as compared to “Main Dining”.  On the Edge,  Main Dining is split between 4 restaurants, each with a different theme:  Cyprus (Mediterranean);  Normandie (French); Tuscan (Italian); and Cosmopolitan (New American).  While each menu leaned toward the theme,  there were also non-theme items available.  And,  the special menu changed each night,  which made it easier to dine in the same place nearly every night without getting bored.   We were told that it’s possible to dine in one restaurant and order from another, but I don’t believe any in our group needed to do this.   As a comparison,  on Norwegian,  the main dining restaurant menus do not change night to night,  which is meant to encourage passengers to try alternative (upcharge) restaurants.

 

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Nanny and Pop Pop and “the kids” at dinner

We also found that the buffet,  a cruise ship staple (I actually typed “stable”,  which is adjacent to “hog trough”,  which is what it is on some ships!). was of far better quality than we have experienced elsewhere.  Instead of one long buffet counter,  it was separated into stations,  and at lunch time these stations changed each day.  While there was always a deli, pizza, and grille counter,  one day there was Indian food;  another day Mexican,   providing for plenty of variation. The “eggs your way” station at breakfast was crowded but they made an excellent poached egg.   We never had a problem finding seating –  something that can be an issue on other ships.

One small negative on this front: the bars were not well staffed.  Nearly everyone on board as a drink package,  so there was often quite a wait for drinks at the hotspots.

Cabins: Everyone in our group booked the same cabin type,  an “Infinite Veranda”, and we were all near one another on Deck 7 near the main elevators.  Deck 7 location was great –  an easy walk down to the Martini Bar/ Club/ Restaurant areas on deck 4.   I should also note that the Edge’s elevators seemed generally less crowded than we have experienced on other, larger ships.  The only time there was a wait was on returning to the ship from port.

The cabins themselves are interesting.  Typically, a cruise ship balcony cabin includes a sliding door to an outdoor balcony,  which is partially encased by the ship’s exoskeleton above and below.   On the Edge,  there is no strict outdoor area,  but the entire exterior wall of the cabin is glassed,  and the top half can be lowered creating a “railing” like effect.  There is also a room darkening shade for use at night,  as well as a folding divider to close a balcony-sized area off from the rest of the room if you so choose –  we never used this feature,  but I can imagine that if one of the party wants to enjoy fresh air while the other is sleeping,  it could be useful.   The Infinite Veranda bathroom and shower were very well-sized,  although I would say that some of the space was stolen from the closet, which we found small.  There were plenty of areas in the cabin to store folded clothes,  but the number of hangers and long-hanging space was limited.

I didn’t take any photos of our cabin,  but here’s a great YouTube link showing how they work:  Celebrity Edge Infinite Veranda Review

Activities:  It’s impossible to take advantage of every activity on a cruise ship,  even if you stayed on board all week.  But here are a few that our group particularly enjoyed:

  • Karaoke
  • Abba and Queen-themed dance parties, with song lyrics on a big screen for everyone to sing along
  • Trivia – we came in 3rd!? how is that possible?
  • Line dancing by the pool
  • Watching the “pool olympics”
  • Silent Disco –  participants are given headphones which can be switched to one of three channels,  led by DJs. Only those with the headphones can hear the music, so it’s funny to watch (and sometimes painful to listen).  They created a kind of contest between the three channels, trying to get people to switch channels and sing along (imagine a large crowd, one third  singing “Bohemian Rhapsody” another “Don’t Stop Believing” and the other third belting out “Sweet Caroline”).
  • Shows:  our group saw one of the musical shows and a comedy show, and were divided on the quality.  We generally enjoyed spending evening time in places where we could talk (and sing, and dance).

 

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Oldest and Nanny singing their hearts out

 

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Line Dancing by the Pool

 

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Pool dancing to “Hey Baby”

A few things we missed:  Wine and whiskey tasting,  entertainment in Eden, Deal or NO Deal game, Newlywed game, behind-the-scenes ship tours, art auctions, acupuncture, footprint analysis, and a few of the shows. Note that some of these activities require an extra cost,  or they are trying to sell you something (as with almost everything sponsored by the Spa).

Western Caribbean ports:  I was the designated planner, and provided suggestions, but we arranged a teleconference to make some group decisions.  We chose the following for each port on our itinerary:

    • Key West, Florida:  We wandered the downtown area individually and meet up at Hogs Breath bar.  Some of our group ended up renting bikes too.
    • Costa Maya, Mexico: This man made cruise port doesn’t really have a lot to do, other than the beach.  We all met up at the large beach/pool/shopping area just at the end of the dock.  This worked because we all arrived at separate times,  some as early as 9:00am and others didn’t wander off the ship until noon.
    • Cozumel, Mexico: Here we booked Nachi Cocom beach club,  an all inclusive experience with a pool, beach, Mexican food, drinks, and optional water sports and massages.  There were 8 (eight!) ships in port that day, so we were very glad to have a reserved place to go.   We had no problem getting into the taxi queue and finding 2 van taxis for the group of 16 that attended.
    • Grand Cayman:  We had booked a cruise ship excursion to Sting Ray City,  a well-known sandbar where the tame stingrays swim around.  Unfortunately,  we were notified the day prior that the excursion was cancelled due to weather concerns, as there was rain in the forecast.   It actually didn’t end up raining, so this was a bit of a disappointment;  our group made their way independently to Calico Jack’s on Seven Mile Beach and enjoyed the beach itself but found Calico Jack’s to be overpriced and crowded.  All agreed that it’s an island we would like to revisit with better plans.
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The view from Costa Maya’s port beach area.  3 big ships!

 

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Relaxing at Nachi Cocom, Cozumel

 

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That’s the idea!

I’ve been to all of these ports before, so I can’t say I was either overly amazed or disappointed in any of them –  they are all, unfortunately, a bit overrun with cruise ship passengers.  It’s a conundrum for the cruise lines,  because the large ships can only dock or tender at certain ports –  if you want a more unique itinerary,  take a much smaller ship.

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Nanny & Grandsons in The Club: Multigenerational Cruising at its best!
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Sun setting over Miami.  Is there a better sunset than one at sea?

Slothing Around: Western Caribbean Ports

Our Getaway cruise included four stops in the Western Caribbean:  Roatan, Honduras; Harvest Caye, Belize; Costa Maya, Mexico, and Cozumel, Mexico.

First,  a comment on cruise line shore excursions vs. private excursions run by locals. Many cruisers  naturally gravitate toward the cruise line-sponsored excursions.  There is nothing wrong with these options. Not only do they boast easy-to-understand names like “Beach Break” , “Dolphin Encounter”, and “Extreme Adventure Tour”,  they guide cruisers toward appropriate activity levels (not soooooo fit?  Maybe the Superman zipline isn’t for you).  They typically accommodate any size travel group.  You can easily pay for the excursion using your onboard account. It’s easy to find our tour guide on the pier when leaving the ship. They also,  importantly, promise that you will not miss the ship.  All Aboard is generally about 30 minutes before sailing – if your excursion provider miscalculates, or there is unexpected traffic,  you could miss the ship if not on a cruise line excursion.

So what’s the downside?

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That’s right,  money.  Cruise line excursions generally cost anywhere from 30 – 100% more than those that can be found on land.

But money isn’t the only reason I generally choose private, local excursions.  The big one: you get a more private, local experience.  For example, our driver in Roatan took us by the house where he had grown up – and his 91 year old mother waved from her perch on the front porch.

Worried about missing the ship?  Choose one of the larger, trusted landside companies –  these are easy to research on  CruiseCritic.com’s ports of call boards,  or on TripAdvisor.  These companies wouldn’t stay in business long if their guests were missing their ships.  I’ve also found that the tour companies and various guides generally all know one another –  and they communicate about things like traffic.  Particularly in the Caribbean,  cruise passenger activity is a major economic boon.  Everyone is invested in you having a great time and no bad experiences.

Would I ever use a cruise line excursion?  Sure – particularly in a destination where few speak English, I would consider it,  because I’m nowhere near bilingual.

Anyway,  a review of our ports (well, 3 of the 4 anyway):

Coxen Hole, Roatan, Honduras

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View of Coxen Hole port from our balcony

We used Rony’s Tours to schedule a private driver for the day on a “Freestyle” tour,  selecting our own activities.  Rony’s website includes a number of group options,  which can be even less expensive,  but for $40pp we thought having our own driver was the best option.  Our driver, Cameron, was born and raised in Coxen Hole.  He had spent a number of years working on cruise ships, and also on oil rigs in the Gulf of Mexico,  but had returned to home to Roatan and now enjoys giving tours on a flexible schedule in his later years.

Our first stop was the Monkey and Sloth Hangout, which is as cool as it sounds.  The owner, Daniel Johnson, is a Pittsburgh Steelers fan, and all of the employees wore Steelers garb, which seemed odd in the steamy Caribbean but we went with it. We were arranged in groups with other guests, and quickly introduced to a two-toed sloth named Snow White:

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Sloths move as slowly as you think they do.  The caretakers did a good job of (slowly) carrying  and letting us hold the sloths –  when they settled into our chests, their long arms automatically tighted around our shoulders like a hug.  And they appear to be smiling and enjoying the experience, at least a little. They do have very long, sharp toes or toenails-  I think the way this place handled the animals was the right way, as we heard from  cruise passengers who went to different sloth encounters,  held them differently, and got scratches.

Next up were the Capuchin Monkeys.  We were warned to remove everything from our pockets, as well as all jewelry, hats, sunglasses, etc.,  as these guys are quite the little pickpockets.

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Monkey stare down

The monkeys liked to jump around their cage and onto guests’ heads –  they managed to scare one little girl in our group, although she was unharmed, she thought the monkey had bitten her ear.  If traveling with small children, remember that they are semi-wild animals, and can seem a little rougher than your pet puppy.

Next we visited the South Shore Zip Line Adventure Park for a suspension bridge eco tour.t7TYLejAT7eNoaTmHN7PSA

We crossed 8 different bridges,  which is harder than it looks as they are very bouncy.  Zipliners whizzed above our heads;  we had ziplined before and decided we didn’t need to repeat the experience.  Our guide spoke fast and walked fast, but we didn’t mind a little exercise at this point in our trip.  The trail is structured to go down the side of a mountain from point to point;  we were glad there was a truck waiting to drive us back up.   We learned a bit about the local flora and fauna, and saw some huge termite nests –   learning that these are literally “shithouses” (pardon my francais) –  termites live in nests built from their own dung.

So that, of course, made us hungry.  It was fairly late for lunch at this point, so we asked the driver to take us to nearby West Bay Beach, where we enjoyed french fries and the best kind of beer, a beaachfront beer:

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As the ship departed from Roatan, local musicians played lively Caribbean music as a sendoff:7%3wV78rRXyzQ6LwOVgQkg

 

Harvest Caye, Belize

Harvest Caye is one of Norwegian’s two private islands. Just off the cost of Belize,  the 75-acre eco-friendly resort was built at a cost of $50 million and includes swimming pools, beaches with loungers, water activities including standup paddle boards, kayaks, and pedal boats, a rope course, zip lines, shopping, restaurants, and bars.  Unlike most cruise line private islands,  food and beverage package drinks are NOT included for ship guests. All restaurants and bars are run by locals, to profit the local economy.

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Long-ish walk to the island; a tram is available

 

Visitors also have the option to take a ferry to the mainland, for additional adventures such as cave tubing, Mayan ruins, and private tours.

We chose to stay on the island for awhile;  it was a fairly cloudy, breezy day so we didn’t stay as long as we might have had the sun been shining.  The families in particular seemed to enjoy the large pool and pool area –  so much nicer than what you find on a ship,  with plenty of room for kids to frolic in the water.

Costa Maya, Mexico

Well, I said 3 out of 4;  this was our dud –  not due to any fault of the island, but due to the weather.  We awoke to stormy skies, but as we prepared to go onshore to visit Maya Chan Beach Resort, which we had read so many positive things about,  I checked my emails to find that the resort was offering optional refunds due to the weather.  Refusing to believe that our day could be ruined,  we made our way steadfastly down the gangway – and promptly got soaked from a torrential, windblown tropical downpour. We won’t melt!, I said.  But Husband convinced me that the prospect of a day at a beach resort in this weather was simply not too enticing.

Kudos to Maya Chan for a great business practice,  allowing guests to cancel when bad weather threatens – I’m sure that’s one reason they get such excellent reviews on both Cruise Critic and Tripadvisor.

We will try again, Maya Chan and Costa Maya!

The skies did clear in the afternoon, and Husband wandered off the ship for this nice photo:

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Cozumel, Mexico

Cozumel, an island off the Yucatan peninsula, is a tourst-friendly place.  Its southern shore is lined with  beach clubs,  roughly a 15-20 minute ride from the ships depending on where you are docked, and which beach club you choose.

Other shore excursion options here include a trip to the mainland to see famous Mayan ruins,  and swimming with dolphins –  an activity we had done with our 4 kids, about 7 years ago.

We chose to visit Mr. Sancho’s,  an all inclusive beach resort with food, drinks, pools, a waterpark, and beach loungers for $55 per person plus the cab ride on your own there and back.   We arrived fairly early, around 9:30 am.  Nothing says vacation quite like guacamole and a beer for breakfast!

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Our cab driver told us there were 7 (!) cruise ships docking in Cozumel that day, but Mr. Sancho’s never became overcrowded.  The cab driver and guards at the gate indicated that no one could enter without a prior reservation;  these are made online for a $5 pp refundable deposit. We were able to easily move from sunny seats to shady seats to a dining table without any trouble;  a friendly waiter brought us drinks and food from the menu wherever we sat, for a nice tip at day’s end.

The Cozumel port requires a long walk through a gauntlet of shops and services, including tour operators, jewelry stores, hair braiding, and Mexican crafts.

We resisted the temptation at most stores;  our only purchase was a definitely unlicensed, black market Mexican-style backpack bearing the Cubs logo for $15 (bargained down from $20).

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These bags were displayed all over the island, with every MLB/NFL/NBA/NHL team represented.  No doubt they’re made in China, but a fun reminder of our trip nonetheless.

Our Getaway cruise was just the getaway we needed.  Captain Roger Gustavsen ran a smoooooooth ship;  almost as smooth as his crooning at the Captian’s VIP party!  He entertained us with “Lady in Red” and “Wonderful Tonight” –  what a treat.   Here’s our sunset finale:

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