Bengaluru Archives - Banker Chick Travels

By this point in my Indian sojourn, I had been traveling for 8 hot, dusty days. I’m not embarrassed to say that after returning to Bengaluru from our 3 day excursion to Agra, I spent a day doing absolutely nothing at the JW Marriott Bengaluru. A little spa, a little reading, a little swim, a little glass of wine. A perfect little breather in bustling India.

Following this needed respite, Oldest and I set off to enjoy a full day private tour from Hidden Gems Tours, a local Bengaluru-based tour company. Our day started at 6:30 am because the company’s owner and our guide, Praveen, wanted to explore a new stop on this tour: an open air flower market along the Mysore road.

Flower Market, Bengaluru

As with many things Indian, the flower market is unstructured. There is no official opening and closing time, and no official location. As early as 4 am, sellers begin lining the streets with flowers including jasmine, roses, and orchids. Shoppers at the market can purchase flowers, or scrutinize potential vendors for future parties and weddings.

Breaking dawn revealed the colorful, noisy, fragrant, and chaotic market. An apt metaphor for Bengaluru itself.

Breakfast at Tiffany’s (sort of)

Next, we headed off down the Mysore road. Out of the packed city environs, and past fields of sugar cane, we stopped for breakfast. Audrey Hepburn was not to be seen, but Maddur Tiffanyss, about half way between Bengaluru and Mysuru, was a great pit stop. Praveen selected our meal, which included Maddur Vada, a delicious grainy fried pancake with dipping sauces.

^{Breakfast at Tiffanyss:} ^{Delicious Maddur Vada}

Notably, Maddur Tiffanyss does not enjoy the greatest online reviews. Perhaps those negative reviewers did not have the advantage of an experienced local to place their order? I thought it was delicious.

Somanathpur and its Temple

Keshava (Somanathpur) Temple was our first and most intriguing historical stop. Constructed over a 5 year period beginning in 1268, Keshava Temple was built as a place of worship and a symbol of the power and prestige of the medieval Hoysala dynasty under Narashima III. Crafted of soapstone, the temple’s interior and exterior contain incredibly intricate carvings of various Indian gods and goddesses, along with elephants, war scenes, and flowers.

^{Still standing after over 800 years!} ^{(not Oldest, he’s only 27)}

^{complex friezes outside the temple} ^{have survived heat and monsoons}

^{Vishnu, gargoyles, snakes, and jewels}

^{quiet, cool interior of Keshava temple with intricately carved pillars}

While I found the Taj Mahal fabulous in its marble beauty, I was simply awestruck at the level and longevity of Somanathpur’s craftsmanship out of basic soapstone. I must have said “Wow” about a hundred times. No doubt, our visit was enhanced by the fact that there were only a couple of small groups visiting when we did, creating a huge contrast to the crowds at the Taj Mahal. We almost had the place to ourselves, allowing for quiet introspection. Thanks are due to the Archaeological Survey of India for restoring and maintaining Somanathpur beginning in the 20th century.

Mysore Palace

The 245,000 square foot Mysore Palace is located in central Mysuru city. The Palace is a large scale example of Indo-Saracenic architecture, which is characterized by a fusion of Indian, Islamic, and European styles. Glorious in its detail, the vibrant three-storied structure is made of fine gray granite. Open courtyards are scattered throughout. The colorful Palace is heavily decorated throughout with intricate carvings, detailed arches, stained glass, and a plethora of domes, turrets, and towers.

^{Photo challenge: getting the whole palace in one shot}

^{colorful tile, gold leaf, and marble arched decor}

^{the elaborate marriage hall at Myore Palace}

The Maharajah Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV, descendant of a family who ruled Mysore for over 500 years, commissioned the current palace in 1897. It was completed in 1912. Although their power was abolished with independence from Britain in 1947, the progeny of the Wadiyar family still enjoy status and privilege in modern Mysore.

^{It felt like I could step right into this painting of the Maharajah arriving via elephant}

I was impressed by the palace’s sheer size, opulence, and stature. However, something about the simplicity and lack of dazzle at Keshava Temple felt more authentic.

Srirangapatana

Lunch followed at the Hotel Mayura Riverview on Srirangapatana Island, just outside Mysuru. A peaceful oasis on the river greeted us, as well as a friendly monkey!

^{it’s not every day you get a selfie with a monkey…please don’t jump on my head.}

^{Visitors enjoying a river ride in a coracle, an ancient Indian form of water transport}

Next, we remained in Srirangapatana to visit the onetime summer palace of Tipu Sultan, which also served as the home of Governor Cornwallis. After the other two sites, this one felt quieter and more approachable. It is a smaller, two story home decorated with open air porches and beautiful tilework. I was reminded of the film “The King and I”, imagining ancient Asian royalty roaming these walkways.

Thank you, Hidden Gems Tours, for an unforgettable day trip to Mysore, Somanathpur, and Srirangapatana. In addition to challenging my spelling abilities, this tour illuminated the history, beauty, and culture of southwestern India. When compared to India’s more famous “Golden Triangle” of New Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, the Mysuru region is often discounted as a travel destination. But its history is just a rich, its beauty just as diverse, and the crowds are notably less. I urge you to consider adding this region to your India travels.

Hello readers! It’s been awhile, and I have so much catching up to do. Since my last post, I have gleefully emerged from COVID and travelled to Greece, Rome, Spain, Turks & Caicos, and more. Also, after over a year of ‘commuting’ from the Delaware beaches to New Jersey, I have also thrown in the proverbial towel and retired from banking. So you know there are many more great trips (and more blogging) planned!

_{Bengaluru’s state government building, Vidhana Soudha, lit up in bright colors for the celebration of Ugadi, a New year holiday}

For my first post retirement trip, I went for big adventure, thanks to my Oldest child. He took a short term work assignment in Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore) India, therefore I HAD to go visit him. It was my first trip to Asia and my first trip to a country more populous than the United States. With only a few months’ notice to plan the trip, I started where I always start: with a map and Google.

Check out my advice for first time American travelers to India here: 8 Tips for First Time American Travelers to India.

Bengaluru is located in the southern third of India , in an area that was once part of the Mysore dynasty. From here, it’s over 600 miles to Mumbai and over 1300 to New Delhi. Bengaluru is known as the “Silicon Valley of India”, due to the predominance of tech workers: in addition to its own budding tech industry, this area primarily functions as the back office of American and European Big Business. In 2023, Bengaluru is expected to grow by 6%. It’s one of the fastest growing cities in a fast growing nation.

India is geographically about one-third the size of the lower 48 states, but its population is nearly 4x that of the US. In April, 2023, it is believed that India has now achieved the status of becoming the most populous country in the world, surpassing China. In fact, per Pew Research, India’s population has grown by more than 1 billion people since just 1950.

Arriving in Bengaluru, the pace of that growth is evident. BLR airport’s terminal is new and arguably a lot nicer than Newark, and additional terminal work is underway. In fact, there was construction pretty much everywhere. An elevated train will soon whisk travelers from BLR to the central city, currently about a 40 minute ride on the highway. Along that highway, signs selling suburban real estate and newly built high-rises abound, along with looming office parks boasting familiar US and European corporate logos.

All this growth comes with a cost, however. From my hotel window, the air pollution is evident. Bellandur Lake, the largest in this ‘garden city’, famously caught fire in 2015. The pollution is a function of vehicles, road dust, trash, and construction. I won’t go on a climate change rant here, but I have serious concerns about the future livability of this city if things don’t improve.

_{Hazy sunset from the 12th floor of the JW Marriott, Bengaluru}

And traffic? I will henceforth NEVER AGAIN complain about the traffic on Rt 1 in Delaware or the Garden State Parkway. It’s difficult to describe, but I’ll try. Imagine, if you will …..

_{getting up close & personal in Bengaluru traffic}

1)no obedience to lane markings

2)drivers ignoring traffic signals and one-way street indicators;

3)all sizes of vehicles, from bicycle to scooter to agricultural cart to semi-truck sharing the same road and lanes, with no rules governing left, right, fast, slow, or otherwise;

4)construction cones and barriers everywhere; and

5)horns. Never ending horns.

“Beep Beep Beep” was the lullaby to which I fell asleep each night in my hotel room 12 floors up. In India, they use horns to let other drivers know they are overtaking them. Which is … constantly. To the left, to the right, it doesn’t matter, just beep beep and keep going. Other vehicles drive within inches of one another. You can count the chin hairs on your neighboring driver. My American vehicle would never make it here, because it beeps a warning whenever something is a couple of feet away, and includes an auto brake feature. In India, it would simply melt down.

But from within all the chaos stemming from Bengaluru’s fast growth and dense population, shines India’s radiant heart. The people I encountered in India were simply beautiful, inside and out. Warm, and always willing to share a smile and an education. Despite the pervasive and unending traffic, I never saw a single ‘flipped bird’ or heard a curse word.

Indian food is loaded with spices, many unfamiliar to Americans – because to Indians, a lack of spice is cold, bland and tasteless; a true metaphor. Their thirst for knowledge is evident in the familiar sight of schools under construction and uniformed children toting books. Their love of bright colors as reflected in clothing, temples, and food is palpable. From what I experienced, India’s cultural motto might well be ‘the more the better’! Whether from buildings, vehicles, colors, spices, or people, the buzzing chaos somehow combines into a fascinating harmony.

_{Dresses for sale on Commercial Street, Bengaluru}

Hotel personnel friends helping celebrate Oldest’s birthday at midnight

_{Smiling woman at Bengaluru Flower Market}

From our tour guides, to Tuk Tuk drivers, to hospitality personnel, to shopkeepers, everyone I met shared a sense of vibrancy and positivity. India may be challenged by pollution, fast growth, and poverty, but if its peoples’ attitudes matter, these challenges will be faced with relish in the decades ahead.

Banker Chick Travels

stories and confessions from an obsessive travel planner

Bengaluru

Discovering History and Heritage in Karnataka

Flower Market, Bengaluru

Breakfast at Tiffany’s (sort of)

Somanathpur and its Temple

Mysore Palace

Srirangapatana

How do you spell colorful chaos? B-E-N-G-A-L-U-R-U….